Monday, August 23, 2021

The Purification of the Navajo Reservation

 The consolation of leaving the high country of the Rockies and crossing the Four Corners is that ahead of us lies the long drive across the Navajo Reservation. There are few ore enjoyable stretches of highway in the country for reviving ones soul.

There is little to see along the way except for a very arid wasteland and some sporadic interesting rock formations. It is the lack of things to see that feels purifying. 

After five years of doing this, several times a year, I know the names of the towns along the way. Kayenta, which is about halfway along the route, feels like a metropolis with its fast food restaurants. Last year during the shutdown it was impossible to find a restroom open to the public even there. We saw families with the children wandering into the dry scrub along the way. This year it was slightly more opened, but still very restricted. Masks were mandatory, even as there are optional in the rest of the state. As I said, my intuition is that things will never return to normal here. People wanted an excuse for change, nowhere more than here.

After Kayenta lies another hour of glorious barren landscapes, punctuated by isolated ranches and little hamlets away from the road.

Driving this highway, one inevitably wishes to arrive at the end, as one does all voyages. One counts down the miles on the signs. But at the same time I wish it would keep going. On the reservation, everything seems far away. Lately I like things being far away.

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